The Kimberley Part 2

We left the Bungle Bungles and headed west, where our next point of interest was Tunnel Creek, also mentioned in "Are We There Yet", therefore something that we had to tick off our list. Tunnel Creek is the most ancient cave system in WA, where visitors have the unique experience of wading through deep and murky water to explore its dark and hidden depths…needless to say, Georgie took some convincing!

The entrance to Tunnel Creek

As we approached the entrance to the cave, equipped with our torches and head lamps, we did have a moment of apprehension as we stepped into the icy water. Freshwater crocodiles and eels are said to inhabit the caves, neither of which, though harmless, were we excited about stepping on. We need not have worried – the only cave inhabitants we found were the noisy fruit bats hanging from the ceiling. By the end of the walk, once finding our feet (and courage) we were rather disappointed not to have seen the red glow of little croc eyes! (The eels were gladly missed).

Glad to have brought a waterproof camera!

It was such a fun and memorable experience – we felt like real adventurers as we negotiated our way through the cave, deciding which was the shallowest route to take through the stretches of water to the next rocky bank. The cave itself was spectacular. We had visions of it being small and narrow (well, like a tunnel!) but it was quite vast in some sections, with spectacular stalactites that hung down like sparkling chandeliers from the ceiling. In the words of the boys it was “freaky but awesome!”. Even Georgie enjoyed it, from the safety of John’s back.

The night before and after our Tunnel Creek adventure we stayed in a free camping spot, strangely named the "RAAF Boab Quarry". Though no longer in use, it was apparently once used by the RAAF as a stone quarry for a runway in nearby Derby. What was left now looks much like a natural gorge, filled with the most beautiful clear, clean (croc free) water, and surrounded by, you guessed it, boabs! We were very taken with the place and pondered that had it not been man made, it would surely have to be one of the major tourist destinations in the Kimberley.

After bravely (and slowly) towing the caravan over 15km of corrugations to get there, we set up camp near the water’s edge and spent the afternoon swimming in the crystal waters and exploring around the banks. We were the only ones there to enjoy it, save for a few Brahman bulls who would wander down occasionally for a drink. We even managed to have our first campfire of the trip, a roaring success, that was still smoldering next morning (John tells me this is the true test of a man’s fire making skills). We had a great night with the kids, staying up far too late, toasting marshmallows and discussing the mysteries of the universe.



RAAF Boab Quarry

 

Georgie swimming at the Quarry



A visitor.

From there it was a long drive to the coast, were we planned to stay in Broome for 6 days to have some down time (washing, shopping, schooling) and enjoy the many delights of this fantastic town. Broome was built on the back of a booming pearling industry during the late 1800s – interestingly, not through diving for pearls, but Mother of Pearl (80% of the world’s production at the time), which was used primarily for buttons. The pearling history is fascinating, and still colours much of the town today. As the divers came from around the world to live and die for their fortunes - there remains a great multicultural feeling  (greatly appreciated by sampling the local cuisine!). Once plastic was invented however, the industry evolved into the farming of pearls themselves, and in recent years a thriving tourist industry. Understandably too -  Cable beach has been voted as one of the world's top five beaches - and rightly so - it has the most turquoise water we have ever seen! We have had a wonderful time here  - our favourite Broome experiences so far have been...

Enjoying a camel ride on the beach -

 

Tom, James, Georgie and Jasmine (Georgie's friend)
I was on the camel in front - hence the angle!



Camels at sunset.

 Discovering the interesting history of the pearling industry -

Having fish and chips on the beach, watching the sun sink into the Indian Ocean.

Tom's Kung Fu moves were invaluable for scaring away the seagulls.

Self explanatory.

Driving the 22km length of Cable Beach to the deserted end - where one or all of us may or may not have enjoyed a skinny dip! (Fear not, dear reader, read on - no pictures to follow.)

Driving on Cable Beach

Ali was there too.

Watching a movie at Sun Pictures - Australia's oldest open air cinema - complete with geckos walking over the screen and bats flying overhead.

We saw the wonderful Aussie movie "Red Dog" - aptly set in W.A. What a weepie!

We were also lucky to arrive on the last night of the "Staircase to the Moon" - the natural phenomenon caused by the exposed mudflats at low tide reflecting the rising full moon, creating the optical illusion of a staircase reaching to the moon. I'd show you a picture, except we forgot to take the camera! I also forgot to have a bath in Aeroguard, so have added to my collection of sand fly bites, which I have an unfortunate allergy to. I'd go into it further, but it might make you sick ("pizza pits of hell" is one description), so suffice it to say, I am not a pretty sight. There has to be a down side to this holiday though, right?

We are heading off tomorrow up to Cape Leveque. It is a 3 hour drive north on a rough 4WD road so we will be leaving the van in Broome and taking the tent for a four night stay. We are camping right near the beach - so hopefully it will be well worth the effort. Will meet you back here next week to tell you if it was! (Hoping it won't be too hot as I will be covered head to toe for sand fly protection!)

PS. Sorry about the picture quality - our good camera was pinched from the van so we are making do with the boys' cameras until we can replace it. Very annoying. My mobile has also gone walkabout, so apologies if you've been trying to call!)