The Kimberley

We began our Kimberley adventure by setting out on the Old Karunjie Track - a 4WD route that starts from Wyndum and led us to Home Valley Station, our first night of camping. The road was as rough and remote as it sounds - and such an adventure. We left on Father's Day, and John decided he couldn't have thought of a more enjoyable way to spend it. The track (it was definitely not a road) took us through creeks, over deep sandy tracks, through herds of Brahman cattle and across barren mudflats that stretched to the horizon. The children were fascinated by the mirages formed by the baking heat on the planes - all thought they would have been easily tricked into mistaking them for shimmering lakes had they been tired and thirsty explorers.

The Prison Boab near Wyndum.
Apparently aboriginal prisoners were held here overnight on the long road to the town gaol.

The mudflats of the Karunjie Track. Much of the movie "Australia" were filmed along the Karunjie.

One of the herds of cattle we encountered. Imagine keeping track of where they are on a million acres!

 The Kimberley landscape was as breathtaking as we had hoped it would be. Towering red mountains set against deep blue skies, reflected everywhere in the multitude of creeks and rivers that meander across the landscape. We were particularly taken with the bulbous Boabs - a fascinating tree that is unique to the Kimberley. It is thought they arrived as seeds brought by the tides from Africa, the only other place where they are found - or perhaps they have survived from a time when Africa and Australia were both still part of one continent. Some of the trees are huge around the girth, with many over 1500 years old. They look so striking in silhouette, that I have become quite obsessed with them and even taken to sketching them. The children are now ignoring me after the hundredth "oh, look kids, THAT one's a beauty!!!".


Beautiful Kimberley landscape (complete with boabs)

We arrived at last at Home Valley Station - very much an oasis in the bush (not a mirage this time!) It's lush green lawns and swimming pool provided welcome respite from the heat (still 36+). Once there we set up camp, which took substantially longer than it takes us in the van! Not for the first time did we say that we never could have done the whole trip in such a manner. That is for people far more organised, committed, energetic and unencumbered than us. The next day John minded the kids while I went off for an early morning horse ride. I was lucky enough to be taken on my own, as there were no others booked, for a 3 hour trail ride around the station. The first 2 hours were wonderful, as we took in the beautiful scenery. By the third hour it was getting very hot, and my bum rather tender (it's been too long!) so I was as grateful as the children for the lovely large pool. The afternoon was spent in the air conditioned car, testing the Landcruiser on all manner of tough terrain. Bruce posed for a number photos in hopes of a contract for a Toyota ad campaign. We know cars are supposed to be girls, but he is far to macho to be female.


Camping at Home Valley Station



Bruce in his natural habitat.

Go Bruce, Go!



Is there anything he can't do? Crossing the Pentecost River


After two days we set off along the Gibb River Road for El Questro Station, where we were booked to stay in their motel-style accommodation for three nights, coinciding with James' 11th birthday. We were all very grateful for a proper bed, shower and toilet, not to mention the fact that the room had no kitchen facilities, so all meals had to be had at the next door restaurant. Shame.

There was so much to do at El Questro, it is such an extraordinary place, of such vast and varied beauty. The size is hard to fathom - we went to a number of lookouts where you realise that as far as the eye can see is all part of the property (that was amazingly, only claimed as recently as the 1950s). The first day we got up early and walked into Emma Gorge - a challenging walk over boulders and along dry river beds - to a stunning/freezing waterhole at the end. We were very proud of the kids for making it (with only a sprinkling of mild whingeing!)

The following day was James' birthday, which started with a big pancake breaky, followed by a boating trip on Chamberlain Gorge. We hired 2 tinnies (each one only allowed 4) which were powered by electric motors. James was excited about the prospect of captaining one of the boats, but his hopes were soon dashed, when only 200m up the gorge, his motor died. He and John abandoned the boat tied up at a nearby bank and very quickly jumped into the other boat (a stray saltie has been spied in the waters there!). We puttered up the spectacular gorge, making very slow progress -  occasional breezes even managing to push us backwards despite being in top speed! We returned to the other boat and towed it back - no mean feat considering the second motor died 300m from the jetty, leaving us to row the boat, not very merrily I can assure you!  After a false start, we were able to rescue the day with lovely afternoon swims and a beautiful dinner and birthday cake at the fabulous restaurant. James even had a go of driving the car on some of the 4WD tracks, so he was satisfied to have driven something on his birthday.

The morning of our last day was spent at Zebedee Springs - the 30 degree thermal pools were a lovely contrast to the icy waters of the gorges. It was absolutely heavenly. Usually the springs are so popular that they suggest you get there at 7am to find a parking spot! (It closes at noon for the exclusive use of the homestead guests) We were fortunate to have the place to ourselves, save for a young romantic couple, who strangely vacated when the five of us squeezed into their pool! We seemed to have timed our stint in the top end well - apparently we are 2 weeks behind the "grey nomad" exodus, which makes a huge difference to getting in, on and around everything.


Sunset at El Questro



More creek crossings. Such fun!

James' Birthday Breaky. Soaking up some sibling love.

Everyone having fun? Excellent.

Heavenly Zebedee

After a night's pit stop back in Kununurra we headed for the Bungle Bungles - a mountain range famed for its unusual orange and black striped beehive shaped domes.

(Sorry to interrupt - tonight we are camped next to guy who is performing a very bad drunk version of Piano Man - too many versus at the best of times, two metres from our window, making it very hard to concentrate. gggrrrrrrrrr. One of the downsides of the busier caravan parks...)

Anyway, The Bungles. We braved another couple of walks (the whinging was starting to build), into Cathedral Gorge and Echidna Chasm. They were spectacular, however with the kids' enthusiasm for gorges somewhat waning, the trusty reward chart has had to become a new addition to the backpack (Tom is the exception - he loves any opportunity to practice his Bear Grylls skills.) We are all building stamina however, and are always glad we made the effort when we get there - who knows if we will ever have the chance to come back? (eh kids!) The highlight of the day was a helicopter ride - really the only way to fully appreciate the scale and beauty of the ranges. A hidden world of
gorges (!), canyons, and pools was revealed as we flew overhead - in our exhilarating, noisy, windy DOOR LESS helicopter. I was I admit, ever so slightly terrified, but the kids were unfazed, and absolutely loved it. It was certainly something that will stay in their memories for years to come.

(Aaarrrrhh! Now he's crucifying John Denver.)

Walking to Cathedral Gorge



Made it.



Walking to Echidna Chasm.  Slowly.

 

James is his happiest when in a vehicle of some description.



Our exhilarating ride over the Bungles.

The hour is now late, and still so much more to show and tell, so we will continue with The Kimberley, Part 2, next post.

PS. A lady nearby has now started with wracking coughing fits. Thank God for ear plugs!